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White shirt on a tailor's dummy with a yellow tape measure draped around it, against a black background – John Crocket

Impeccable from cuff to collar

Shirt Lexicon

The John Crocket shirt range offers you fine fabrics in classic colours as well as in bold checks and stripes. We distinguish between two models and three collar shapes. We have also put together helpful tips on fit and care for you.

Two-ply cotton

Most of our shirts are woven from two-ply yarn. This cloth gives you durability and shape retention, clear and brilliant colours, and comfortable wear.

Natural white yarn bobbins on a creel, illustrating plied yarn – John Crocket

A two-ply thread consists of two particularly tightly twisted cotton yarns. These threads are woven in both warp and weft (the vertical and the horizontal threads). The length of the threads makes the cloth lighter and silkier, while the high twist and double plying of the yarns add stability. Our fabric carries the quality designation 100/2 x 100/2: two-ply yarn of count 100 is used in both warp and weft. Compared with the usual 115g-130g/m² qualities, our fabric is lighter, at only 105g-110g/m².

Plied yarns come in counts from 40/2 x 40/2 to 180/2 x 180/2. We deliberately chose the 100/2 x 100/2 quality, as it best meets the standards we set for our shirts. For this reason, among others, we do not use half-ply fabric, in which only the weft or only the warp yarn is plied, or a 100% cotton fabric woven from single, unplied yarns.

Schematic diagram of plain weave with warp threads and weft thread – John Crocket

Poplin

Hard-wearing, breathable and particularly versatile: that is poplin. It is one of the most widely used shirting fabrics, and you will find it in many of the shirts in our range. Its plain weave, with a denser warp and a thicker weft, makes the shirts easy to wash and iron.

Twill Check

Twill is a weave known for its fine, diagonal texture. As with our other shirts, only high-grade cotton fibres are used. They are woven into robust, hard-wearing cloth. Twill check gives plain shirts a subtle sheen. Our colourfully patterned shirts, by contrast, have a soft, flannel-like look.

Oxford

We want our Oxford cloth to be firm in the hand, dense in the weave and rustic in texture. This look cannot be achieved with two-ply yarn throughout because, as described above, it gives the cloth a silky character. Our Oxford cloths are therefore the exception. Instead of two-ply yarn throughout, they use a special weave of a 50/1 and a 30/2 yarn. This creates the typical Oxford texture, which looks somewhat heavier, grainier and sportier. It is a weave with a long tradition.

Shirt models

Our shirts are cut long, so they cannot come untucked from your trousers as you wear them. For a better fit, the shoulder is made in two pieces (split yoke).

Our shirts come in two models: Classic and Slimline. The Classic shirts have a straight, classic cut. Our Slimline shirts are slightly waisted. Which line is right for you therefore depends not only on your build, but also on personal preference.

Sleeve length follows more precise guidelines. If you see an L after the collar size at John Crocket, it is a long size. A rule of thumb tells you whether it suits you: from a height of 185cm, you should choose the longer sleeve.

There are always exceptions, of course. The shirt cuff should, however, always be clearly visible below the jacket sleeve. Unfastened, and with your arm hanging straight down, the shirt cuff should cover two thirds of the back of your hand. The jacket sleeves should reach the wrist.

Size charts

Classic shirts

Size UK size Collar size Chest width Waist width Back length Sleeve length
regular
39 15 1/2 40.6 cm 61 cm 57.5 cm 80 cm 86 cm
40/41 16 41.9 cm 62 cm 59.5 cm 83 cm 88 cm
42 16 1/2 43.2 cm 64 cm 61.5 cm 83 cm 88 cm
43 17 44.5 cm 66 cm 63.5 cm 85 cm 89 cm
44 17 1/2 45.8 cm 68 cm 65.5 cm 85 cm 90 cm
45 18 47.1 cm 70 cm 68.5 cm 86 cm 90 cm
longer sleeve
39L 15 1/2L 40.6 cm 61 cm 57.5 cm 82 cm 91.5 cm
40/41L 16L 41.9 cm 62 cm 59.5 cm 85 cm 93 cm
42L 16 1/2L 43.2 cm 64 cm 61.5 cm 85 cm 93 cm
43L 17L 44.5 cm 66 cm 63.5 cm 87 cm 94 cm
44L 17 1/2L 45.8 cm 68 cm 65.5 cm 87 cm 95 cm
45L 18L 47.1 cm 70 cm 68.5 cm 88 cm 95 cm

Slimline shirts

Size UK size Collar size Chest width Waist width Back length Sleeve length
regular
39 15 1/2 40.6 cm 55 cm 52.5 cm 80 cm 86.3 cm
40/41 16 41.9 cm 58 cm 56.5 cm 80 cm 87.2 cm
42 16 1/2 43.2 cm 60 cm 57.5 cm 80 cm 88 cm
43 17 44.5 cm 65 cm 61 cm 85 cm 88.9 cm
44 17 1/2 45.8 cm 65 cm 61 cm 85 cm 89.7 cm
longer sleeve
39L 15 1/2L 40.6 cm 55 cm 52.5 cm 82 cm 92.1 cm
40/41L 16L 41.9 cm 58 cm 56.5 cm 82 cm 93 cm
42L 19 1/2L 43.2 cm 60 cm 57.5 cm 82 cm 93.8 cm
43L 17L 44.5 cm 65 cm 61 cm 87 cm 94.5 cm
44L 17 1/2L 45.5 cm 65 cm 61 cm 87 cm 95.5 cm

The collar shape

Light blue check shirt with Kent collar, double cuff and burgundy tie, label “John Crocket Classic Fit” – John Crocket

Kent

This collar cut seats the tie knot correctly, right in the middle of the triangle formed by the collar points. It does so even when the top button is casually left open on informal occasions, as the flexible (and, of course, removable) collar stays help the collar sit closely. They give it the right curve and stop the collar points from standing away, even with a loosened tie. If you are looking for the right shirt to wear with a silk tie and a business suit, you have just found it.

As the Kent collar is the classic of classics, we offer it in both of our lines: Classic and Slimline. Our Classic Kent has a double cuff and a breast pocket, while the Slimline model has neither. That makes it a good choice for casual occasions too.

Blue and white check shirt with button-down collar and dark blue and gold tie, label “John Crocket Classic Fit” – John Crocket

Button-Down

English sporting style, made for comfort. The button-down collar is a typically British example of practical clothing. It was invented for polo players: so that the collar points would not flap into their faces as they chased the ball, the points were buttoned down.

The soft collar with its buttoned points gives the shirt a sporty character and makes it a genuine all-rounder, on relaxed days at the office as well as in your free time. Even without a tie and with the collar unbuttoned, you will always feel well dressed. The simple cuff with two buttons suits this relaxed yet smart style. A breast pocket underlines the practical side of the button-down shirt.

Blue patterned shirt with cutaway collar, double cuff and striped tie in brown and blue – John Crocket

Cutaway

It was a bold idea from a tailor who took up his scissors and, with one skilful cut, created what is today the most modern collar shape: the cutaway.

With its points “cut away”, or in other words spread, the cutaway always looks a little more fashionable than a classic shirt collar: relaxed and stylish at the same time.

The cutaway has a dynamic, relaxed look, and the tie knot shows well between the horizontally cut collar points. Made to be worn with a suit, the cutaway has no breast pocket but comes with a double cuff, leaving room for elegant cufflinks.

Workmanship in the London tradition

Apart from the Oxford cloths, John Crocket uses only two-ply (two-fold) cotton for its shirts. Quality comes first at John Crocket. Mother-of-pearl buttons are a given, and every step of the making is carefully considered. The following points show this most clearly.

Three folded shirts in light blue, blue and white stripe and light blue check, with tie and knot cufflinks – John Crocket

Collar

The collar is made from two pieces, which means it is not fused. A fused collar is simpler and cheaper to make, but it looks rigid and makes the collar seem like cardboard. With a two-piece collar, by contrast, careful cutting gives a natural set. For a perfect fit, our Kent and cutaway collars also have removable collar stiffeners.

Detail of a blue shirt collar with a two-piece collar band and buttonhole – John Crocket

two-piece collar

Detail of a blue shirt collar with a collar stay pulled out, inscribed “John Crocket” – John Crocket

removable collar stays

Detail of a light blue double cuff with an oval cufflink – John Crocket

Cuffs

The cuff shown here is the double cuff. It is a double layer of fabric that is folded back towards the wrist and held in place by cufflinks or fabric knot cufflinks. Evening wear such as the dinner suit is worn only with double cuffs. Our Button-Down and Slimline Kent shirts come with the simple button cuff, which fastens with two buttons. It is the most popular type of cuff and is ideal for casual wear.

Care instructions

You can wash our shirts at 40°C. Please note that the shirts shrink a little after washing. That is why our shirts have one extra centimetre in the collar, so that even after 4-5 washes it is not too small and still fits comfortably.

Care symbols: wash at 40 degrees, do not bleach, tumble dry, iron at medium temperature, dry cleaning P – John Crocket

In Love with Shirts

Four folded blue shirts with stripes and checks, paired with a tie, a pocket square, a bow tie and cufflinks – John Crocket

There are several good reasons to choose the John Crocket shirt. First, there is the two-ply cotton, made from doubled yarns, with a lasting silky sheen. The classic cut is generous enough for the shirt to sit impeccably at all times. The Slimline shirt has a narrow cut and is a little shorter. And with their variety of patterns and textures, these shirts are right up your street.

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